Environmental issues arise at all stages of the textile and apparel supply chain. The expansion of
textile production and consumption has contributed to increasing pollution, water shortages, fossil fuel
and raw material depletion, and climate change. Production of polyester fibre, the most widely used
man-made fibre, consumes non-renewable resources and high energy levels, and generates
atmospheric emissions. Modern automated textile plants consume large amounts of energy. Textile
finishing consumes large amounts of water and energy and often produces harmful effluent. Apparel
production is more environmentally friendly, but sourcing from low cost countries consumes more fuel
for transportation. Among consumers, the trend towards fast fashion and cheaper clothing has led to
a throw-away mentality.
Environmental issues are being addressed, however. Although recycling activity remains at a low
level—for economic and quality reasons—Marks & Spencer and others are promoting recycling
schemes. Some retailers are also voluntarily attaching “eco-labels” to garments to provide
environmental information. Although these have met with varying levels of success in the marketplace,
they can encourage “best practice” in manufacturing. Some labelling schemes, such as the EU Eco-label
Scheme and its associated flower logo, adopt a full life cycle or “cradle to grave” approach
while others, such as Öko-Tex, focus on a single aspect of an item such as its environmental attributes,
social attributes, or individual phases of its life cycle. Other initiatives include REACH (Registration,
Evaluation and Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals) legislation which aims to encourage safe
and eco-friendly chemical production. In the USA the Toxic Substances Control Act (TCSA) enables
the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to track industrial chemicals produced in or imported
into the country. Some man-made fibres, such as Lenzing’s lyocell fibre Tencel, have a minimal impact
on the environment. Also, organic cotton production is growing rapidly but still accounts for only a
small fraction of global cotton output. Nonetheless, organic cotton is being adopted by high profile
companies such as C&A, Coop, Nike, Wal-Mart, and Woolworths. And a growing number of brand
and manufacturing companies are pursuing environmentally friendly strategies. Such companies
include American Apparel, Gap, Interface, Patagonia, and Wal-Mart in the USA as well as Rohner
Textil in Switzerland, and a small knitwear company in India, MaHan, which was founded by an ex-teacher
from the Netherlands.
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